Saturday 10 December 2016


Trek to Saribar fall in Gujarat


Looking for another weekend option to spend time in calmness with adventure, we were looking for options near Narmada river. I was thinking if there is a river then definitely there has to greenery and waterfalls. Researched and found few falls which are famous and few still unknown.

Saribar falls in Gujarat, India is located in Dediapada Taluk in Narmada District. It is approx a 6 hour drive from Ahmedabad. Surrounded by lush green forest it discharges water at the height of 60 feet gives a beautiful breathtaking site. This place is serene, pristine, and calm, making it a perfect place for relaxation and peace.


Route

From Ahmedabad there are two routes to reach to village Dediapada. After Vadodara, one is via Dadhoi, Rajpipla and other is via Bharuch. It is advisable to follow Dabhoi, Rajpipla road to avoid traffic. Conditions of road is very good even in the remote village location. Whether it is four lane or two lane, there is not a single puddle in the road and there are plenty of signages. Throughout the route, the road is surrounded with trees and green fields.

Dediapada is a small village in Narmada District with a sizable population of Adivasi communities.  Despite being remote in location, it is well connected by Gujarat and Maharashtra state transport Buses.

Location

Base camp was besides Dev river, at a distance of appro. 1.5 hr from dediapada. It is a reservoir of Narmada River. We parked our car at the other end of the river and had to cross the river to reach our base camp. Dev river is situated at border of Gujarat and Maharashtra state. Our car was parked in Gujarat state and our camp was in Maharashtra. We reached around 9.00pm Crossing the river under star light was an experience in itself. Crystal clear river, water flowing through rocks. City never lets you experience star filled sky. Spending time Lying down under starry sky and gazing at them made me feel what we are missing in the city. We were hungry so gobbled the Barbeque. Smoked paneer, capsicum, onion, steamed maize with light music all adding to my experience. There were good 2/3 seater tents on the riverside with sleeping bags. Toilets were also there, albeit far but still a great convenience.










Trek

This trek is not like usual where you keep walking on a similar terrains. This trek has lot more experience in itself. You can enjoy walking along the fields, river crossing, rock climbing, drenching yourself in water, swimming till the fall, various uphill climbs as well as downhill etc. Whole trek till the main fall i.e. saribar fall and back is aprox 14 kms and 21000 steps. There are many falls you come across on trek. Personally more than saribar fall I like the unnamed fall  just before the Saribar. Having a guide or localite is must in this trek and the trek route is not very intuitive. In fact, at many places, if someone gets left behind, he /she would have to shout to locate other people and get directions. This trek is steep and difficult. This trek is not for amateurs and is above medium level difficulty. There are near about five falls of which Saribar is highest.


Fields

Out of 14 hr trek, approx. 3-4 hr of trek is crossing through fields. The path was so narrow that from a distance we couldn’t gather that we have to walk thorugh the fields. Farmers were farming there field, village kids were looking at us giggling, laughing, but still making us feel welcomed. We crossed through different farms be it wheat, maze, pulses, lush green grassland. View was breathtaking and very picturesque.








River Crossing

In whole trek we would have crossed over 15 strems. Given the season these were not deep but we were required to be cautious of slippery rocks. If shoes become very slippery, its better toc ross the strems and slippery rocks barefoot. In monsoon it would not be recommended to trek in this area as the intensity of water will be high. Post monsoon is the best time for trek as the level of water makes it favourable. Further after a month the level of water will further go down making it very rocky and tiring to trek.










Rope Climbing

Part of the trek approx. 2 km was climbing steep hilly area. It becomes very difficult to climb bare handed. Soil is loose and it makes it difficult. At some places we used ropes to climb and come down. There are also some places where there is only a thin strip to walk on a hill with a steep downhill on one side.


Food

We were thankfully given a full course lunch to be packed in the morning. During the trek we carried our food with ourselves. Trek organisers walking with us carried garbage bag so that we can drop our leftover in it to avoid lithering of food and garbage. Cleanliness was given upmost priority to keep the nature intact. Also it is advisable to carry atleast 4 litres of water per person on the trek, I took only 2 litres and the end of the trek I was short of water and was losing my energy.

Fitness level

This trek is not for amateurs. It is better to build some stamina before trek. There are huge rocks to climb, steep climbs, slippery path and 14 kms of all this for over 10 hrs. Also river crossings make shoes wet and bit heavy and trekking with such heavy shoes anyways consume lot of energy.

Things to carry

For trek it is advisable to carry extra pair of clothes, torch, band aid and medical kit. Non slippery shoes are  a must. Slippers/sandals would be required to cross river on previous day to reach camp. This is to ensure that shoes don’t get wet before the trek itself. Water proof water.

Final comments

Overall a very good trek as it provides a mix of things to do which doesn’t let you get bored. But, be ready for a tiring day, though fun filled. The trek organisers were also very good and friendly. Would be happy to connect people to them for such a trek.

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 

 

 
 
 
 
 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 

Sunday 9 October 2016

Continuation of solo forest trip to Singara, Masinagudi




This trip to Singara at Masinagudi was in continuation of my trip to Vythiri (refer my previous blog- Solo Trip to Vythiri). Having enjoyed the beauty of woods at Vythiri, I moved to Singara in Masinagudi in Madhumalai forest reserve. It’s contiguous with forests of Vythiri but falls in Tamilnadu. Would like to highlight that the checkpost at Madhumalai closes at 6 pm and it takes good 3.5 hours from Vythiri to that check post, so keep sufficient time margin.
The journey was excellent, not just because of the greenery around, but also because I was driving a Harley Davidson for the first time. What an awesome experience it was. Since it was start of summer, both sides of the road were covered with brown grass and leaves. Riding on a bike has its own advantages as it allows much closer and fresher view of the things around. And the freshness goes skin deep and make your free. I truly felt free in that journey and was ecstatic with joy! The happiness was so much that I didn’t even mind the road side wild elephants not giving me enough attention. I just returned the favour.







My stay was at Laila Estate of Whistling woods Via Singara town. There are various other stay facilities, including resorts and home stays, in that area (singara and madhumalai), with varying level of luxuries. Whistling woods is not a resort and has very basic infrastructure and facilities. However, Laila estate offers unmatched feel of the jungle. It’s situated deep inside the jungle, and within tiger territories. To the best of my knowledge there is another estate which is deeper inside the forest and wildlife enthusiasts can opt for that too. Also, there are two tree houses, deeper in the jungle, which can accommodate maximum one person each. One of the tree houses is on bamboos, which I believe is unlike most others. There is another property from whistling woods nearby which has a round cottage with 2 rooms and two/three rooms at the reception and dining area. This round cottage can be good for family people as it is near reception too. This place has got an awesome cook. He will cook whatever you wish. During my stay I had mouth-watering appam, sambar, chutney, idli, lemon rice, pakodas, tea, south Indian veggies, roti, rice and many more dishes. He cooks non-veg too much I can’t comment because I didn’t try it. Although unlikely, but if you get bored there and are left with some energy after expeditions, you can enjoy in TV room or play badminton and carrom.

 

The very first night at Madhumalai, I got the opportunity to go for night safari. We started at around 11 pm. Driver and naturalist were well aware of the route and had good understanding of increasing probability of spotting wild life. After driving on the designated route for approx. 40 mins, we parked our vehicle and switched off the headlights, waiting for animals. And it paid us well, as we spotted a sloth bear! That night when I came back to my room, I had a great sleep and had the great dream of spotting more wild animals. I was being greedy, but then why not?

Next day woke up with the sound of natural alarm from our own friendly neighbourhood wood pecker. At 5.30 am Mr. woodpecker started making his tapping sound. He was banging so heavily against wood that it was echoing too! Also tried general nature walks on my own without any local guide, but it’s risky as wild elephants roam around in that area. I was told in a strict manner not to roam around alone and to respect forest and its privacy. Believe me, after my trip I would advise the same to all. We also had walks using tribal guides, and they were awesome.

Walking inside the jungle gave me opportunity to also see shades of the jungle. Since March was at cusp, got to notice shade turning from green to brown and back to fresh green with just some rain.  We were simply walking without much talking. And that is how actually how I wished to be inside the forest. As and when needed Naturalist explained about fauna, wildlife habitat and related topics. Apart from various birds, we spotted malabar giant squirrel and wild dog. Wild dogs are usually found in groups but we spotted a single wild dog. Came to know that wild dogs have 90% success rate in their deadly attacks! Thankfully, we were spared.





 
 

 


 


While returning to the estate, at about 50 mtrs, we heard langur call and right in front of us was Black Panther. Thankfully black panthers cannot read minds, so the panther thought of something and ran inside the forest. It’s basic human nature to get more aggressive when you see someone being defensive, even when you know that you just can’t stand in front of the other person. So, ran after the panther and we chased it for good 20 minutes before we lost the track, thankfully. Oh! what an adventure it was. Added fun was to share this story with many other guests and being centre of attraction.

There is one key attractive aspect of Laila Estate. Near the estate, there is an artificial water reserve, which attracts animals and birds. Since it was summer, the water reserve was not completely filled, but still spotted many birds there. March is the mating season for birds, and figs starts growing which attract birds, thus one can spot lot of birds around. Even if you sit in the veranda, you can spot many birds. Just sitting there, I spotted around 40 species of birds.
 

At night, whistling woods arranges for campfire where you can chit chat over barbeque, share stories and play games. Advantage of a place like this is that you get to have many walks in different parts of the jungle. You can even walk for 5-6 hours in each walk and spot variety of wild life, if luck favours.

 
The other day, morning alarm duty was taken up by none other than sherkhan. Early morning a tiger started giving call for territory marking. It sounded as if tiger was just behind my room, as Laila estate falls within the tiger territory. Tiger call was high enough to wake me up and give me goose bumps. I was sleepy so decided not to give a chase to the tiger this time, as we did to that poor black panther. During the same day, while walking from Laila estate to main resort for breakfast, I heard something in the bushes. Thought I might spot a tiger and saw, not a tiger, but another sloth bear, just 15-20 footsteps ahead of me walking inside the jungle. Got that feeling of excitement mixed with fear. Did I give a chase to the sloth bear? Well, he was too lazy to run so I would have won easily J

There is dam nearby called madhumalai dam, quite famous and beautiful. Though I didn’t visit the dam, but tribals say it’s quite beautiful. I am mentioning about dam here because other day before walk dam must have released some water due to which within the jungle streams were flowing despite been summer. This in fact proved to be quite good as we got great ambience for a long forest walk. That walk had a larger group, including some students. During this walk we got to walk besides the streams and over the rocks. The group of students was bubbling with excitement and kept asking questions, while I was more interested in having a quite walk and thus kept some distance. I came across upon termite hill which was almost double my height! New creepers were growing (green in color) on dried grass (golden color). I believe that day too we walked round 5 hours. In evening we used to share stories and experiences over camp fire and all this time I had more than few of my own worth sharing.

I departed from Singara for Coimbatore, towards hustle bustle life of city. It takes about 4 hours from there, filled with various hairpin turns in the road. In March it was quite foggy and these 4 hours were also spent in midst of great beauty of Mother Nature.

 

On an overall basis, both Vythiri and Masinagudi offer great experience of forest. While Vythiri provides convenience of designated tracks and lots of resorts, masinagudi provides experience of raw jungle, with more wild life around.







 

 





 

 

 

 

 



 





 

 


 

Saturday 24 September 2016

Diu – literally, Ilha de Calma






Who said calmness comes from within!

Well, in portugese Diu is known as Ilha de calma, which means island of clam. Diu does comes true to this name. It’s a place for just relaxing, find your own isolated spot on the beach and sit for some time. Mind it, Diu is not Goa. So, you won’t find too many beaches, too many beach side properties, too many beach side shacks or too many people!

Journey to Diu

We travelled to Diu in August 2016. Looking for option for our long weekend trip, we finally decided to go to Diu with the thought in mind that if nothing turns out well than at least kids can enjoy the beaches. 

There are 2-3 route options, but take the route via Junagarh only as it has the best road. Everyone we consulted for routes advised to take that only.

We left from Ahmedabad at 7.oo am. Drove about 100km and took a break for breakfast at Honest Restaurant @ limdi village. Breakfast was decent enough with Indian options like poha, samosa, gathiya, papdi, tea, coffee. It happens in life, you chose something and then realise later that something better was in offing. In the spirit of life, 3 kms down, we found cluster of joints like dominos, CCD etc. Well, but then it’s about matter of preferences, right!

The road till Junagarh is a well maintained four lane highway. There is nice green belt on both the sides of the road. I think the road would look good in rains, but then it was not raining that day.

We could spot kingfishers (the bird!) and few other birds sitting on electric wires. You can find many eating joints on the way, so no need to panic and pack a lot of food for the journey, at least till Junagarh. Thought, post Junagarh the food stored for winters can come handy.

In between, at Jetpur we took a short tea break @ manubhai Tea. We moved further towards Choki. Road is good with trees on both sides, sometimes forming tunnels. As I said, would have looked awesome in rain.

Once you start approaching Junagarh, you can’t help but notice silhouette of hills. It’s mainly a cluster of hills and during rainy season the hills were green. One of those hills is the famous Girnar. The Girnar and its cluster of hills houses several hindu and jain temples. We were given to understand that you need a full day to climb up and come down.

One of such temple is Jatashankar Mahadev Mandir. On tripadvisor someone had posted a review talking about how the path to this temple is dotted with river crossings and many waterfalls. Determined to enjoy the walk to the temple, we enquired. It’s about 2-3 hours return trip, but people denied that there would be any such falls or river crossing. Short of time, we skipped that also. When you enquire about places in Junagarh, people will definitely talk about animal zoo. I remember someone mentioning that it’s the largest zoo in Asia! Given that we had some anti-zoo kind of people with us (my husband!) we added the zoo to our “places skipped” list J

Having skipped almost everything in Junagarh, we thought of at least not skipping the lunch (thankfully!). On the outskirts of Junagarh there is Sugar & Spice restaurant. Sugar & Spice is the chain where we ate most in our college days. And, who can miss a chance to revive some college memories? Food was appetising there and butter milk was great. We gobbled all the food in no time.  Overall Junagarh is a nice place because of the hills and religious places.

A small patch of road from Sugar & Spice and on the way to Sasag Gir is very bad. There can be 2 options to go towards Somnath from Junagarh. We took the one which passes through Sasag Gir, where the famous Gir Sanctuary is located, despite it being slightly longer compared to the other one. We knew that Gir sanctuary is closed during that time but wanted to admire the natural beauty. Road is average, mainly 2 lane but not heavy traffic.  Can’t help but highlight again, semblance of forest along the road would have been great if it rained that day. Remember, you are in west India and not in south, so don’t expect that kind of greenly and forest.

The Gir Forest, or at least the road which passes through it, is dotted with tea stalls and resorts.  We took a break at a tea stall in the middle of the forest. Discussing lion sighting with locals over a cup of tea was good fun.

Well, did I mention that our plan was to visit Somnath Temple and then move on to Diu? The temple is on the way, so not much diversion required. The temple, of course, is revered all over India as its one of the jyotirlingas. It’s beautifully placed on the banks of Arabian Sea. It is said that in a pin drop silence one can hear sea easily. The temple is good and view is best. All famous temples attract crowd, so can’t do much about it, but may be getting rid of beggars etc. may enhance the experience. It’s actually a temple complex and later we came to know that there are more temples and some 3 river sangam in that area. So, those who are very much interested in temples, should keep this in mind.

It was around 6.30 pm we started from Somnath for our final destination “Diu”. We reached there by 8.30 approx. Drive was good. As we entered Diu found roads & infrastructure to be well maintained and well planned too. It was night but could feel that Diu was looking beautiful. Our resort Kostamar Beach Resort was a new one and was located on Nagoa beach. It’s the only restaurant on Nagao beach with roof top restaurant. Just to clarify, we couldn’t find any property in Diu which is truly located on the beach. In context of Diu, located on beach means at some distance from beach or may be separated by a small road. In case of Kostamar and likes of that in that area, it’s the latter case.  Thus, the nagoa beach, the most popular one, was just across the road.

Now, about Diu

Let me first give an overview of the places in Diu and things to do. There is Nagoa beach, where most of the people visit and is relatively clean too. We believe there are some watersports on this beach and some other beaches like Ghogla beach and Chakratirth beach, but this was not the season, given our lifeline of monsoon going on.

You will need a vehicle

Diu is a place where it is necessary to have your own vehicle, so that you can drive around and explore places. There is a cycle track also on major roads and you can hire cycles. But, we couldn’t locate cycle hiring places in our 3 days visits, may be because it was not the season. That was one of our target activity which, unfortunately, we couldn’t do.

“Discover” beaches

While exploring Diu you can visit untouched beaches and cliffs and meadows, where you will not find any tourists. As such, Diu is not very tourist heavy place, but it’s always good to get secluded places of your own. We did find such beach beyond the INS Memorial and spent good 5-6 hours there. Climbing rocks and standing in midst of large waves hitting the rocks was the experience which probably can find its place in long term memory. The beach was a dog’s heaven but when we visited the beach, dogs decided to give us our space and just watched our theatrics from a distance. There is a small dargah near that beach, which has a water tap. It can be used to wash off the sand after enjoying the beach. Few rocks are so high that we can climb over it. These rocks are volcano shaped, some covered with sea weeds/ water hyacinth. Within rocks we found few small crabs both live dead, shells, few insects. This was the best part of our Diu visit.


Explore the unknown

There is a city side of Diu where the Fort, INS museum, St. Paul Church, Nadia caves etc. are located. There is a shiv temple also in that area. As I said, its better you roam around using your own vehicle. On the other side of Diu i.e. the road which connects the nagoa beach side to Somnath side entry, we arbitrary took a turn and found ourselves in midst of a mesmerising meadow, cliff and a graveyard. This place is not at all mentioned anywhere on the internet and is not part of the tourist circuit, but is definitely one of the best part. The graveyard looked like a village from a distance, all colourful and the graves so big that they looked like huts. When we approach nearer, we realised that we can’t see any movement or people in that village (thankfully!). And then it hit upon us that it’s a graveyard and must be a very old one, may be from the Portugese times.

Nadia Caves

Nadia caves are awesome. So awesome that we visited this place after a long and heavy lunch (will talk about it), and were planning to go to our resort and take a nap, but when we visited this place, we were all charged up. In Nadia caves, you go deep down and then there are some opening to the top. Risky, but when you climb such openings, you find yourself in a meadow. Nadia caves is a must visit. Don’t forget to get lost in Nadia caves as that adds to the fun. Also, don’t worry about the utilities, as when you get down there are makeshift washrooms in the caves (yes, It’s that big!). Nadia caves has openings on top at most places, so you feel like being in mini canyons. Also, inside the cave directions are marked so that you can choose not to follow them.





Fort and the prison

Diu fort is good. Little bit of walking with some uphill walk in between. You can get a good view of sea. The fort houses a prison also and the guard there was friendly enough to have a chat and explain that there are prisoners inside. Of course, to visit the prison part you need to do something, may be not spend some money but steal some! J

Beyond Diu Fort in the Arabian Sea is another fort known as “Fortress of Panikoth” built at the mouth of the creek and can be accessed only by motor boat. Given that it was monsoon season, there were no rides (boats) available there. And thus comes another contender for life time memory. After talking to many fisherman’s in the area, we managed to convince a fisherman to give us a round in the sea. Boat rides were not allowed in that season, so let me not talk about it.

Beaches

Apart from nagao beach there are many other beaches like Ghogla, gomtimata, chakratirth and jallandar beach with former being the largest beach. Various places has pecular palm trees “Hoka” which add to the its scenic beauty. All the beaches are almost same, so don’t worry if you can’t cover all. Heard that Ghogla and Nagao have the water sport facilities.

INS Memorial & Gangaeshwar Shiv Temple

There is a large market near Apna hotel, you can visit there to buy general items at cheap prices. Beyond this area roads go to the shiv temple, Nadia caves and INS memorial. Further to which lies the beach we “discovered”. We moved further and reached INS Memorial. We did not visit inside the INS memorial as we thought what’s the fun in seeing a model of a ship? Instead, we climbed a huge rock adjacent to the memorial. Its top is almost at the same height as the INS memorial and had a great view. We realised that INS memorial must also be having a great view or may be better. But climbing the rock was fun! The shiv temple must be good. Unfortunately, didn’t go inside but we later saw the photographs where in the waves touch and submerge the shiv lingas.


Other aspects

On the main road, with cycle track, which connects the Diu city with the Nagoa beach side of Diu, there is a Dinasour park and also good beauty on the sides. In fact, there is bird sanctuary- Fudam bird santuary alongside the road and you can spot good birds there! It was unfortunate that most of the beaches were filthy in parts in Diu. This includes the one which we “discovered” and the one near the Dinosaur park. By the way, just to clarify, Dinosaur park has few dinosaur and lobster statues and few things for children, not much. But since it’s on the main road, you can just drive in and drive out.

Eating out

Most of these places in Diu have adequate parking, so no issues on that aspect. We were also craving for having lunch or dinner at beach side. Diu is not Goa. What we could find were two places: one is restaurant of Sugati resort. The resort is located on the other end of the Diu (not the Somnath side but the city side), adjacent to the main entry gate of Diu. The restaurant there is ok and is at a distance from beach separated by a garden and a glass wall. But this is as near as you can get near the beach to eat something in a restaurant. Another place was Apna hotel. Don’t go by the name, it’s a decent place on the fort road and it overlooks the beach, with the fort road in between. Food is delicious at very reasonable price. Good fast service and courteous staff too.  On the fort road, there are few more restaurant facing sea but Apna hotel gives better view as it is on 1st floor.

Coming from Gujarat you can keep in mind the alcohol aspect, which becomes a key feature of Diu visit for some people. The restaurant in our resort Kostamar was also decent enough. In fact, coming from Gurgaon, Delhi, Mumbai, Ahemdabad or any other major city, restaurants in Diu would seem like road side eateries, but then that what you get there. We ware vegetarians, but came to know that people relish sea food at all such places, But I think, Apna Hotel was pure vegetarian.

Overall about Diu

There is also a shell museum in Diu, which we skipped, so can’t comment on it. Overall Diu lives to its promise of calmness. A visit worth 2-3 days, not more than that. By the way, Diu is not goa, all places including restaurants close there around 10:30 -11:00 pm and after that you are on your own. There is also the water sports angle, which I can’t comment on because there were none because of the monsoon season. Better prepare your mind and set your expectations accordingly, take your vehicle there and then you can enjoy Diu.